Paramaribo

Stumbling through the moonlit sands of Galibi at midnight, silently cursing mosquitoes and realizing your headlamp batteries died back in Paramaribo, you suddenly glimpse something otherworldly-a prehistoric leviathan dragging her massive bulk ashore with surprising grace. Welcome to leatherback turtle nesting at Galibi, a surreal spectacle available only from February to August, when the world's largest turtle species transforms this sleepy Surinamese village into a maternity ward straight from the pages of Jurassic-era parenting guides. Plan ahead a couple months, as permits and tour groups fill quickly, and budget at least $50-$100 for a reputable guide; believe me, you don't want to be that clueless tourist tripping over nesting holes or unwittingly stressing the marine moms. Pack insect repellent strong enough to stun an elephant, a water bottle, a sturdy flashlight (with extra batteries this time), and a healthy dose of patience-watching turtles nest is like waiting for a Picasso to paint: slow, peculiar, but utterly mesmerizing. Sure, you'll return home with sand in your shoes and a newfound disdain for irresponsible plastic consumption, but the visceral wonder of seeing these gentle giants, creatures who previously survived the dinosaurs yet now rely on us bumbling humans for survival, is a story worth every inconvenience.